IN 1977, Diane Keaton had a banner year: She starred in “Annie Hall” and “Looking for Mr. Goodbar,” films for which she’d nab an Oscar and a Golden Globe nomination, respectively. It was also the year she cemented her signature look: a tomboyish one that frequently relied on a turtleneck, as seen in the photograph at left.
Ms. Keaton’s affection, both on and off screen, for high-necked pullovers—often paired with menswear-inspired garb—is well-documented. She improbably layered a turtleneck under a spaghetti-strap sundress in “Annie Hall”; topped a dark version with an army-green button-down in another Woody Allen film, 1978’s “Interiors”; and donned a sleek T-neck beneath a white suit while crooning “You Don’t Own Me” in 1996’s “The First Wives Club.” However, her wardrobe staple played its most meta role in 2003’s “Something’s Gotta Give,” when a womanizer (Jack Nicholson) asks his young girlfriend’s uptight mother (Ms. Keaton), “What’s with the turtlenecks?” Ms. Keaton replies impatiently, “I’m just a turtleneck kind of gal.” Later, while in the throes of passion, she tells a fumbling Mr. Nicholson to shear off her cream top with scissors.
“ ‘Turtlenecks aren’t obviously sexy, but they don’t lack allure.’ ”
As a turtleneck kind of gal myself, I’d argue she made the wrong cut. Throughout my decades-long devotion to the style, my closet has been filled with a motley assortment, ranging from chenille or cable-knit versions to velvet bodysuits and faux-lace dickeys. During the blustery winters of my childhood in New England, they shielded me against the elements. As a teenager, I discovered their capacity for hiding hickies. But mostly, I’m drawn to their fit, which toes the line between modest and somewhat clingily suggestive.
First introduced in the 1860s, turtlenecks aren’t obviously sexy. But that’s not to say they’re lacking in allure. “[The turtleneck is] an interesting paradox because you’re all covered up, enfolded in fabric, yet, if it’s fitted, it can also…be incredibly sexy,” said Laura McLaws Helms, one half of the duo behind Marshmallow, a New York City- and Los Angeles-based brand that was born out of a hunt for the quintessential turtlenecked bodysuit. One need only look to such turtleneck-loving icons as Marilyn Monroe, Jane Fonda or Sharon Stone, who wore a short-sleeved style to the 1996 Oscars, to see her point. And then there’s Audrey Hepburn, who was the ultimate, turtleneck-clad gamin in her heyday. “Her character in ‘Funny Face’…zipping around the Greenwich Village in her turtleneck and cigarette pants, was just so classic and cool,” said Chris Benz, SVP, head of women’s design at J.Crew, where the tissue-weight cotton turtleneck is an enduring customer favorite.
“The most eternally stylish garments actually serve a functional purpose,” opined New York-based fashion stylist Rachael Wang. Mr. Benz agreed, noting that turtlenecks are effortless (unless you suffer from neck claustrophobia), lend texture to any look and serve as ideal layering pieces (see sidebar). They’re a versatile blank canvas, which is perhaps why so many designers proposed them on their fall runways this year. At Jil Sander, designers Lucie and Luke Meier used them as a foundation under voluminous coats and dresses; at the Row, delicate, diaphanous turtlenecks with exaggerated proportions peered out from beneath sharp tailoring; and at Versace, they shed any frumpy associations when tucked under sensual harness bras and silky camisoles.
“Turtlenecks are particularly underrated,” declared Ms. Keaton in “Let’s Just Say It Wasn’t Pretty,” her 2014 memoir. “Buy one. I dare you. Give one a try. Turtlenecks cushion, shield. and insulate a person from harm.” It’s true—a turtleneck can make anyone feel powerful and protected. “It’s forever intriguing because it leaves everything to the imagination,” said Ms. Wang. At the same time, it draws attention to the face, as I recently realized while trying on a cream, Helmut Lang style. It telegraphed Ms. Keaton’s spirit, so I couldn’t resist buying it. And you can rest assured that no scissors will ever touch it.
WHAT’s THE OVER-UNDER? / THREE WAYS TO TAP THE T-NECK’S LAYERING POTENTIAL THIS SEASON
Wear a striped button-up over a turtleneck for a très Diane Keaton winter look. Shirt, $268, Ralph Lauren, 212-434-8000; Turtleneck, $118, alexmill.com
Try a turtle with a removable neck under a vest to show some unexpected skin. Vest (with scarf trim), $2,495, Brunello Cucinelli, 212-334-1010; Turtleneck, $450, marisawitkin.com
For an evening event, subdue a sheer sparkly top under a silky blazer. Jacket, $710, officinegenerale.com; Turtleneck, $635, Max Mara, 212-879-6100
The Wall Street Journal is not compensated by retailers listed in its articles as outlets for products. Listed retailers frequently are not the sole retail outlets.
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Diane Keaton’s Turtleneck Style Is Still Worth Copying - The Wall Street Journal
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